ADVENTURE AWAITS: From Dhorpatan to Phoksundo

    "To journey beyond the limitations of my mind, I travel to look upon the voyage
within myself", I stated as I set out on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. The unknown route
of Rukum is shown by a voyage through enigmatic landscapes that reveal the most
fascinating aspects of Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve, Baglung, to Shey Phoksundo Lake,
Dolpa.
    It was Dashain. I and a friend planned a great trek from Dhorpatan to the upper Dolpo via
the Rukum district. We had no idea we were going on previously uncharted roads,
dubbed a "Guerrilla Route".
    We took a night bus from Kathmandu to Burtibang, Baglung, and then a 2-3 hour jeep
ride to Dhorpatan, where we had a full day to see the magnificence of Nepal's sole
hunting reserve, noted for Blue Sheep and Himalayan Thar. While unclear of the route
we would take the next day.We figure out the routes to Dolpa with the advice of
 authorities from the DhorpatanHunting Reserve.
 They gave us a map on which we scribbled the
 location and our previous impressions of where we
 were heading, even though they too had less idea of
 the route we were going. It was all about us, and we
 were ecstatic to visit such unexplored territory, we
 had no idea the kind of voyage we'd be able to take, even in our wildest dreams.
    We got up early in the morning to begin our adventure. We were advised that
descending paths to find a lodge would take 6-7 hours rising towards Phalguni pass to
reach our destination; Thakurthali. However, we did not encounter any fellow travelers or
locals who were familiar with our paths and the locations we were traveling.
It had begun to become dark. The stillness ruled supreme. “Are we stranded? Isn't
this the spot where we're supposed to be?” My friend's screams are audible. I was trying
to figure out if we were on the right track. We were, but after traveling for four hours
straight downhill from one of Dhorpatan's greatest altitude passes, we couldn't find the
small settlement we were supposed to visit. We both began to shake, fearful of losing our
way. We tried practically everything to get our message across. We were only two of us
who just packed our belongings and embarked on a once-in-a-lifetime journey to Dolpo
via Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve and Rukum. We sort of controlled ourselves in that dark,
chilly night for 30 tense minutes, consoling each other and praying that aid would
certainly arrive. It eventually did, due to the sound of cooking in the distance. We
breathed a big sigh of relief. We rushed there and came into an old makeshift shelter, not
exactly a house, but a place to sleep with a few rooms. A lovely supper was served to us
by two young men in their early twenties. "We're normally at home with our family and
friends at this time of year" So, why are you guys on the road? One of the guys in his
early twenties said. "We're simply going to have an adventure and explore", we said.

Makeshift Hut

Rest Place

        Due to the desolate highlands and lack of habitation from Dhule village, they advised us
to take a guide with us. Before reaching the Dolpa border, Dhule village is the final
settlement. Otherwise, we"ll have to camp for two days to go to Dunai, the Dolpa
headquarters.
We stayed at Tatopani the next day and stayed in a newly constructed hut with no doors
and enjoyed the hot spring. We prepared ourselves because the food supplied was not
suitable for our palates. We spent an interesting night hearing about how desolate the
location and its environs were.
After traversing several passes, forest ravines, and the Himalayan main chain, Rukum's
distant parts conceal enormous stretches of nature rich in flora and animals, scarcely
inhabited and breathtakingly beautiful. We reached Dhule on the auspicious day of
Fulpati. The next day, Magar dai, the owner of the hotel where we slept, welcomed our
humble request and was ready to accompany us to Dunai after he heard our stories of the
struggle we had to go through. He had previously recounted heartbreaking instances
about single travelers who had lost their way and been bewildered. He stated that we
might find some camp for the Yarchagumba collection crew, but he did not confirm, putting us on an uncertain expedition. 

Staying on a Tent at Purbang

 

With Hunting Camp Owner

We arrived at Purbang after only 4 hours of trekking through the enthralling lowlands,
where we discovered Yarchagumba camp and had no choice but to remain overnight
before getting up early to cross Jang La pass. 

    The following day, MahaNawami of Dashain, we were unable to communicate with our

family due to a low battery and no networks. I and my friend were on a tour on such a

wonderful captivating path with our guide brother, who kept us acquainted with

anecdotes about his own troubles at that time. Suddenly, he yelled, "That should be the

hunting camp for hunting Blue Sheep", He pointed to the camps that could be seen far

away. We were ecstatic since we had never imagined ourselves having such fantastic

experiences. That was no amazing adventure we were looking forward to.

We arrived at the campsite of a hunting group that was there to hunt blue sheep. We were

greeted with a cordial hand which reminded us of the unpreparedness of our journey. After

a few hours, the hunter, who had been able to haunt us on the day we came, appeared

joyfully. Under the dark sky of rural Rukum, we feast on Blue sheep meat. It was

Mahanawami, and it was the greatest moment of my life. I never expected such a thrilling

environment so far away from families.

The next day, the staff prepared us for the uphill Jang la pass at around 4,500m altitude

with eggs, red bull, and noodles. We move ahead after waking up as early as 4 a.m. to

reach the Jangla Pass as early as possible. Jangla Pass (4,500m altitude) is the border

between Dolpa and Rukum districts.

"Today is the most significant day of Dashain, Bada Dashami", I said to Magar Dai, who

was walking back to the village as we approached the settlement. We gave him some

sand and grass for tika placement in honor of tika day. We were all pleased to have

celebrated Dashain at 4,500 meters. We thanked him for his immense support on our

biggest journey and vowed to meet in Kathmandu.

Tika Putting At 4,500m 

        The trail now was all downhill to Dunai but after walking the whole day passing jungles,

fields, and rivers we were finally able to see villages. We were unable to reach Dunai

until late at night, so we spent the night at Thala village, Dolpa. The Rokaya household

provided us with shelter and a dinner of meat because it was Dashain and most Nepali

families had mutton meat. We opted to stay in Dunai the next day because it had taken us

about 9 days to get there. Our adventure to Phoksundo has begun.

It was an incredible experience, and thinking back, it was one of the most difficult things

we have ever done in my life, not just the walk but also the risk that we have undertaken. The

people I met and the friends I made will always have a special place in my heart.

We began to re-energize. As time passed, breathing became easier and easier. Of course,

we had fallen from an elevation of 4,500m, and the track was parallel to the river flowing

from Phoksundo. We had arrived in the territory of the Greatest Dolpali Thinley

Lhondup. It had taken us another two days to reach the enthralling Shey Phoksundo lake.

We were almost there after climbing an uphill trail for approximately 3 hours, close to the

blue heavenly paradise that was the heartland of this lovely area of Dolpo, Shey

Phoksundo Lake. We were approaching the lovely paradise after almost 14 days of

adventure. Finally, we could rejoice since we had made it through the most difficult of

routes.

            After such an exhilarating trip, we returned to Nepalgunj via Juphal before reaching

Kathmandu. Alas, I returned to my city after nearly 17 days. For the first time, I found

myself missing Kathmandu. Those 17 days were most undoubtedly the finest of my life.

This trail is for anybody searching for an adventure that is truly unique in terms of

terrain and elements, as well as something so gratifying and gorgeous. You will reach the

top with the proper training, equipment, and mindset! I wholeheartedly suggest it to

anybody!

Now, on to the next adventure.